It had to happen sooner or later, that Vicki and I feel like we are back in a routine. However, I will admit that mine may be somewhat more palatable than Vic’s. I get up around 8 and head up the mountain to take people skiing for the day. Vicki gets up at sometime before that (I am mostly asleep when all this goes on...) and heads up the steep hill to her chalet to prepare breakfast for when the guests deign to get up. Having cleared away breakfast and cleaned the chalet she then goes shopping (along with every other chalet company in Verbier, of which there are many) before making it back to the flat for some lunch. Once I stroll in about 4.30ish, Vicki is getting ready to go back up to start dinner in the chalet. While she is slaving away over a hot stove, I take a leisurely shower, go and wander round the shops wondering what to have for dinner, before going for a beer and a surf on the net in the bar downstairs. I then have to painstakingly prepare a gourmet dinner for Vicki for when she gets home anytime between 9 and 11, depending on her guests’ eating speed / chatting abilities.
But fear not, for it is not all doom and gloom, we do get to spend the odd day together. And by “odd” I mean just the one, on Wednesday this week. I managed to get a few days off after the hectic holiday season, so we were able to go skiing together (I took Vicki down previously unchartered territory for her – a very steep mogul hill!), have a beer in the afternoon followed by Vicki’s first ever Fondue Bourguignonne, a meat fondue where you cook chunks of chicken and beef in boiling stock at your table. Proper Swiss fare! We actually realised it was the first complete day we had spent together since the start of November!!! What – still no sympathy?? You lot really are heartless...
I think our age is definitely telling when it comes to days off though. We both feel a bit reluctant to go out on the Tuesday night and get so drunk that we sleep til 12 the next day, and would much rather go out for a couple and get up at a decent time to go up the mountain, without feeling like the world is about to swallow us whole. Although we did bump into a couple of Vicki’s colleagues the other day as we were heading up who had simply bypassed this stage by having the T-Bar Full English Breakfast, which comes complete with a Bloody Mary (or a Margherita if you don’t like tomato juice apparently). So they were raring to go, although I am not sure what state they would have been in by 5pm in full après-ski mode! It’s hard being the old buggers in town...
One of the things on my “to-do” list (which is quite long seeing as I seem to be remarkably inefficient out here – must be getting into the laid back ski bum attitude...) was to scope out any good deals for those of you who are interested in coming out to see us. Having finally made it to the tourist office and asked for the more reasonable hotels / B&Bs in town, I was faced with a blank look of incomprehension. “But this is Verbier. Surely anyone coming here has more money than Croesus’ dodgy accountant?!” However, there are a few hotels which may be worth a look if you are looking at booking independently of a holiday company:
1. SV - Vicki can get a really good 'friends and family' price on SV hotels (Rois Mages and Mont Gele) for what they call 'reverse weekends' which is Sun-Thurs. Prices are per room which are mostly doubles but there are also a couple of 4-people rooms which obviously work out a lot cheaper per person! Let us know if you’re interested and I'll let you know the prices (don't really want to post them publicly!). They'll also give a smaller discount for any friends and family taking one of the chalets - depends what end of the holiday budget spectrum you are ;o)
2. Other tour operators - Some of the accommodation might be a little less than luxurious but some of the Inghams, Crystal type companies seem to have some OK deals for their chalets. Let us know if you're looking at any of these and we can let you know if it's somewhere convenient! There are also some smaller, independent ones, so have a look around if you are planning on coming out.
3. The Alba – This is where we have our lovely 70s retro studio. There are quite a few seasonaires here but they do also have other flats available on a weekly basis during the season. Seems to be about 1000CHF for a week for a similar double bed studio, and there are also some 4 and 6 person ones available (set up as 2 - 3 room flats). Prices are all on their website. We have tried asking about discounts, and will keep you posted should anything come of that.
http://www.kingsverbier.ch/Alba/en/alba_rates.htm4. Cheaper hotelsHotel Garbo – right in town, between the bars and the lifts, so great situation. About 200CHF for a double room in lowish season. Not too shabby. http
://www.hotelgarbo.comHotel Les Touristes – at the bottom end of town (fairly close to us), so would need to use ski bus or about 10-15 mins walk into town. The most budget hotel in town, at only 88CHF for a double room with toilet. But – and there has to be a BUT – there are only 4 rooms (yes, four...) and some have communal bathroom facilities. So one for the cash-conscious traveller.
http://www.hoteltouristes-verbier.ch/index.htm5. Less cheap hotelsThe Phenix Hotel – not too far from the centre of town, it touts itself as a quiet hotel for families and the like. Prices range from 280 to 310CHF depending on season per night for B&B in a double room, with a 7 night min stay. Not too bad.
http://www.phenix-verbier.com/verbier/cosybar_english.htmHotel La Rotonde – again, right in the thick of things, just along the main street from Garbo. Between 250 and 340CHF per night for double room, it looks to be not bad at all.
http://www.hotelrotonde.com/content/view/2/3/lang,en/Hotel de la Poste – same location as la Rotonde and Garbo, on the main drag. Prices between 238 and 454 CHF depending on season (obviously in Feb half term, the higher end will be the norm but January and March are generally ok). Not the most luxurious hotel but ok.
http://www.hotelposteverbier.ch/6. B&BThere are a few Bed and Breakfasts in town, but not many. You might want to try the following on Google (they are all not too far from the centre of things):
La Golettaz, on rue du centre sportif – between 80 and 100CHF per person per night;
Au Clair de Lune, on Chemin de la Barnette – price on request;
Coup de Foudre, on Chemin du Plan Pra – 70 to 85 CHF;
La Varappe, on rue du Cente Sportif (bottom end of town) – 65 to 85 CHF.
There's a list on the Verbier Tourist office website but these are the ones closest to the action.
7. HostelThe Bunker – If Les Touristes sounded expensive then this could be an option, but we've not heard many good things about it! This is the youth hostel at the bottom end of town, not very far from where Vic and I are staying. It is an old nuclear shelter (hence the name for the more observant of you) and has no windows. There is an annex building, and you may even get a window there, but not guaranteed. Prices start at between 29 to 39 CHF for a bed, depending on windows, bathroom and number of room-mates. This does include breakfast and use of the adjacent sport centre’s swimming pool and ice rink (but not skate rental. Just how cheap are you?!?). This may not be one for those of you more accustomed to fluffy bath robes and jacuzzis...
http://www.thebunker.ch/8. The posh onesFor those of you more used to the Verbier lifestyle here are some of the slightly more upmarket hotels (for the rest of you these are the ones not to bother with unless you get a great deal!):
Chalet d’Adrien – 5*
Kings Parc Hotel – 4*
Hotel Montpelier – 4*
Hotel Rosalp – 4*
Hotel Nevai – 4*
Hotel Les 4 Vallees –4*
Hotel Vanessa – 4*
Central Hotel – 3*
Hotel Bristol – 3*
Hotel Les Chamois – 3*
Hotel Ermitage – 3*
Hotel Farinet – 3* (take note this is above the most famous après-ski bar in the whole world, so beware if afternoon naps are your preference or you want to hear yourself think between 4-9pm!!)
And if you are feeling really flush, then check out The Lodge Verbier, which is Mr Branson’s very own luxury hotel.
General tip on locationThere are lots of hotels and B&Bs lower down in the valley (eg. Le Chable), and websites will tell you it is only a ten-minute gondola ride to get up into Verbier. Which is true - but only during the day. It's not recommended if you want to go out in the evening as there are no buses past 8pm and taxis cost the GDP of a medium sized super-power. So I would recommend shelling out the extra few Chuffs to stay in town, so that walking becomes your means of transport. Trust us on this one. Anywhere in Verbier itself is fine (we're near the sports centre which is about a 5 min walk from Place Centrale and 10 mins from the Medran lift in normal shoes - there aren't any great maps of the town!) There is also Verbier Village which is seperate from Verbier Resort, but still walkable for a few beers - probably about 10-15 mins to place centrale.
There are also dozens of smaller chalets and apartments being rented out, but we have not been able to get any helpful inside info on any of those as yet. Flights go to Geneva and it is then a relatively short hop to get over here. If you don’t have transfers included in your package, a train from Geneva airport to Le Chable (via Martigny) and then a bus to Verbier will get you here in under 2 hours.
If you need any detailed information on hotels, get in touch and we will of course do what we can to give you some in-situ knowledge. Not sure if I have actually written this anywhere, but we are not using our English mobiles out here, as we both have Swiss numbers. If you have been trying to get hold of us, we have not been ignoring you on purpose!! Drop us an email if you need the numbers – not sure I fancy broadcasting our numbers to any Tom, Dick or Hanz over the net.
Hoping to see as many of you out here as possible, cheers!